MINNESOTA IS MANY THINGS TO MANY PEOPLE. Fans of urban pleasures head to the Twin Cities of Minneapolis and Saint Paul, with their museums, art galleries and restaurants. Shoppers make a beeline for the Mall of America, with its 520 stores, plus the indoor theme parks and aquarium. “But that’s not my Minnesota!” complains my nephew, Rob, who lives just outside Minneapolis.
“As my car number plate says, this is the ‘Land of 10,000 Lakes’. You should tell your readers about the unspoiled wilderness.” Never argue with Rob, is my motto. Read on for Minnesota fun – indoors and out!
MINNESOTA’S GREAT OUTDOORS
CANOE THE BOUNDARY WATERS
Straddling the US/Canada border, the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness includes more than a million acres of water and rocky islands, pine trees and sandy coves. Wildlife is everywhere – moose and deer in forest clearings, beavers building dams, and bald eagles soaring overhead. Cook over a campfire, look up at a gazillion stars and listen to the eerie call of loons – once heard, never forgotten. In business for 30 years, John and Kathy Schiefelbein, of North Country Canoe Outfitters, provide the canoes, tents, food and know-how. They tailor trips to abilities and needs. “As long as you’re reasonably fit, you will have a good time. Most visitors spend five nights out there. They don’t need guides; it’s hard to get lost!” North Country Canoe Outfitters
FISH FOR WALLEYE
When it comes to catching walleye, the official state fish, not all of Minnesota’s 10,000 lakes are equal. One of the best is Lake Winnibigoshish, about 50 miles from the headwaters of the Mississippi River. At McArdle’s Resort, staff guides know all the best spots on ‘Big Winnie’ to track down these firm, white, sharp-toothed fish that are rather like a pike-perch. Anything between 17 and 26 inches long has to be thrown back, but locals reckon: “The best eaters are a pound or pound-and-a-half. Just pan fry them in a little butter or oil.” McArdle’s Resort in Bena, between Bemidji and Grand Rapids, four hours north-west of Minneapolis.
CYCLE THE ROOT RIVER STATE TRAIL
Cycling on the Root River Trail near Lanesboro
When it comes to bike trails, Minnesota is No 1 in the USA, with miles and miles of paved paths. In the south-eastern corner of the state, the scenic Root River State Trail follows an old railway bed for 42 miles from Fountain to Houston. Interest is provided by iron bridges, 300ft cliffs, wild turkeys, hawks and vultures. Lanesboro is among the little communities that have been re-vitalised by the trail; check out its antique shops, B&Bs and fun cafés. In Whalan, Cedar Valley Resort rents bikes and will take cyclists out to Houston for the 30-mile ride back (have lunch in Rushford). For more of a challenge, start in Harmony and take the Harmony-Preston Valley State Trail (30 miles; lunch in Preston). The Root River State Trail ; Cedar Valley Resort, Whalan, is 2.5 hours south-east of Minneapolis.
HIKE UP EAGLE MOUNTAIN
Minnesota is not known for majestic peaks – think Yorkshire Dales not Rocky Mountains. But 2,301 feet up, Eagle Mountain’s summit offers impressive views. On a clear day, you can see the Misquah Hills to the north and the glinting waters of Lake Superior to the south. The 3.5-mile trail rises about 600 feet through spruce and birch trees. At the top, a plaque commemorates the 1961 survey that established Eagle Mountain as the state’s highest point. Allow about four hours for the round trip, but factor in a picnic (no cans or bottles). Just remember to fill in a self-issue permit at the trailhead kiosk. Eagle Mountain – turn off Route 61 after Lutsen, which is just over four hours north-east of Minneapolis.
NOT YOUR USUAL OVERNIGHT STAY
Minnesota has a slew of fun places to lay your head. For example, train buffs can sleep in a revamped 1899 station, the Depot Renaissance Minneapolis Hotel, or in their own private carriage at the Whistle Stop B&B in New York Mills, three hours north-west of Minneapolis. Below are some additional unusual spots …
HOUSEBOAT HEAVEN
House Boat near Rainy Lake
With nearly a century of experience in tourism, the Dougherty family know the ropes. They rent out houseboats – not the ones that stay put at their moorings, but sleek vessels for exploring Voyageurs National Park on the Canadian border. The boats have engines, steel hulls, electricity and mod cons, such as proper loos, beds and gas BBQs. After a briefing, motor off into the 340sq-mile watery wilderness … and listen for the howl of timber wolves at night. Rainy Lake Houseboats, in International Falls, five hours north of Minneapolis.
THE LURE OF A LIGHTHOUSE
For 122 years, the Two Harbors lighthouse has thrown its beam out over Lake Superior. The beacon is automatic; local volunteers look after the Light Station. Visit the light tower and museum, then stay in the former keeper’s quarters, where the simple rooms are a trip back in time. For privacy and your own bathroom, book the separate Skiff House. After a candle-lit breakfast, walk the trails and watch iron ore carriers the size of ocean-going ships pass by. Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast, in Two Harbors, three hours north-east of Minneapolis.
A CELEBRITY HIDE-AWAY
One of North America’s great drives is Highway 61 from Duluth to Thunder Bay, Ontario. Along the way, Naniboujou Lodge is a throwback to the Roaring Twenties, when celebrities, such as world boxing champ Jack Dempsey and baseball hero Babe Ruth invested in it as a private club. The Crash of 1929 ended that dream, but the lodge overlooking Lake Superior has been revived. It has a gaudily-painted dining room, gigantic stone fireplace and comfy log-cabin style rooms – but no phones, TVs or wifi, let alone mobile-phone coverage. Naniboujou Lodge , 14 miles from Grand Marais, five hours north-east of Minneapolis.
OVERNIGHT IN THE SLAMMER Prison was never this luxurious when the Fillmore County jail opened in 1869, down in south-eastern Minnesota. Today’s ‘inmates’ can choose from the former sheriff’s quarters, the old ‘drunk tank’, and the ‘cell block’ behind bars. The look is Victorian, with dark wood and, perhaps, a claw-foot bath or wood-burning fireplace. Unlike the original ‘guests’, you can leave as and when you want! TIP – ask Marc and Jeanne about the nearby trout fishing. JailHouse Inn , in Preston, two hours south-east of Minneapolis.
